3/30/09 Monday.
This was to be my first day of school. I walked down to the building I scouted yesterday and the big gates were now open. The address I had said second floor, so I went up the stairs and walked the halls looking to the school. I could find it no where. Again the "you've been screwed" panic set it. Yep, I'd been scammed by an internet "school". Then I ran into a couple of other "Anglos" walking around with the same panic stricken confused look on their faces. We nodded tentatively, afraid to speak, and then kept going with faces stuck in pseudo-fear/confusion. At this point it occurred to me, that it was possible that Vietnam held to the floor naming conventions that everywhere but the US subscribes to. Ground floor, then 1st floor, 2nd floor..etc. I walked up the next flight of stairs (3rd FL in the US)and viola! The school. Eventually, everyone else found their way up and we all sat around the room with those tentative half smiles on our faces. At this point I got up an introduced myself to the one really white guy. What do you know, he was from Minnesota! How could I have known? From then on we all introduced ourselves and the tiny room was a little more comfortable.
We ended up with a total 9 students. Darren from England, Patrick from Ireland, Loren from Australia, Artem from Russia, and 5 of us from the US. Tim from Seattle, Collin from Niagara Falls, Iris from New York, Adam from Minnesota, and me. In the case of Artem the Russian, the school usually doesn't accept non-native English speakers. However, he was educated in an British boarding school and was quite fluent. It turns out that Darren is fluent in French, and speaks a little Italian and Spanish. Most importantly though, he he already speaks Vietnamese! This came in handy right away. At lunch time he was able to guide us when ordering and how much to pay.
Generally, the day was intended as an ice breaker, an introduction to the course, and meeting our two instructors. They are quite a pair. Diêm is a local teacher and quite amazing. She can out-English any one I know--except for some of her pronunciations. Andy is a jolly 30-something Brit who's been here for a while and is married to a local. Both the two are really funny, but in completely differently ways.
At the beginning they put us through a lot of memory games that on the surface seemed rather childish. However, at the end of it all we realized how difficult is was to try and remember things that were not innate to our normal language understanding. Lesson 1 learned.
3/31/09 Tuesday
Day 2. Today is the second day of school and I woke up pretty hungry. I figured I'd buy something on the way. In Asia they really don't have "breakfast food". They eat the same types of things for all meals. Noodles, rice, pork etc. Still, as a remnant of the French colonials in Vietnam, Baguettes with assorted fixin's are available. I stopped at side walk stand--and by sidewalk I MEAN sidewalk--to get one. The woman was literally sitting on the sidewalk cooking from a small pot on coals. I pointed at things that looked edible and she made me the sandwich. (It turned out it was pork meatballs.) It was pretty good, and all for the princely sum of 10,000 dong. (60cents) I actually paid her too much and she called me back for the change. A pleasant surprise.
For the morning period our class continued with the training and memory games. In the afternoon we had class with Nguyen Dinh Vũ. (Vũ is his first name.) His job was to teach our classes in Vietnamese. This was intended to give us some basics in the language, but also it this was to drive home to us the difficulty of language acquisition and pronunciation. Wow! Our ears and mouths were really strained. There was a lot of humour, especially when Aussie Loren was speaking. We left day 2 with an understanding of how difficult it would be for OUR students.
The baguette ladyDay 3. Since I've been here I've been eating a lot less than I'm accustomed to. However, today I was really looking for a good breakfast. At my street corner I decided to try the lady who seemed to have the morning crowd. I was going to get a baguette but I really felt like some eggs were in order. She made me the Vietnamese egg sandwich which also included cucumbers, chilies, a patté and what I later learned was pickled parsnips. It was great. I've never had such a good egg sandwich, and for only 6,000 dong. (30cents) She became my daily breakfast meal.
At school, we again continued with our English training and began to delve into some English grammar. What a sight to see, it was just beautiful. A waif-ish Vietnamese woman in traditional attire, (Áo Dài) explaining to a bunch of English speakers the functions of their own grammar. And all of us, lost in ignorance of our own language. "Predicate, verb, past perfect......etc." I really should have listened to Sister Mary Margret in Grade school.
The period after our morning break was even more humbling. We had Kris from Hong Kong teach us Cantonese Chinese. She spoke only Cantonese to us and we were sinking fast. I left for a bathroom break and missed 5 minutes of the lesson. I never caught up. Eventually, when the class was over we realized she was a fluent English speaker, (even had a hint of a Brit accent) and this was another example for us to experience what it was like to learn a completely foreign language. Lesson learned.
In the afternoon Andy asked us about that session. Apparently we were supposed to get the class in Welsh, but the scheduling was wrong so we got the Cantonese instead. I think the Welsh would have been just as bad.
Oh, we also learned that the kids here start school at 6:30 and get out about 5:00pm! Hmmm. It means we also have to start at 6:30. Early mornings again. Can I really handle this.
4/02/09 Thursday.
The classes are getting serious now and were are doing a lot of teaching exercises. We worked at a lot of new stuff and it was time for lunch. Previously Darren had introduced us to Rat Hue (pronounced, Rut Way) restaurant, a nice place with good food and A/C, but today we decided do something different and go to Ben Thanh market. This place is the big market in town and is quite a tourist haunt. As we walked through I saw a German woman berating a local who tried to cheat her. Yep, the local was asking for like 3000% to much. Hey it only has to work once! At our chosen eating counter there were no seats. So the owners just chased off the current patrons so they could seat us. No one seemed to mind and I think it is because everyone realizes that when the fat foreigners come they'll make more money. We were convinced that they had two menus with different prices. One for locals and a more expensive one for the foreigners. It was nice detour but we decided that Rat Hue was to be our "usual" lunch place.
At break time in the afternoon another student introduced me to Cafe Sa-han coffee from a sidewalk stall. This is an iced coffee that is everywhere. You can get it as just black coffee on ice, or with condensed milk. Again, the hygiene of these vendors is always questionable and this one did a number on me. I was later informed by someone in the know that, "you should never get the condescend milk. That can remains open all day in the heat." Yep, that was the problem.
The crew at the Veggie restaurant
After class a group of us wandered through warren of alleys trying to find the Vegetarian restaurant for Iris and the Russian. The alleys were quite amazing. You are literally passing by everyone's living room/motorcycle parking. The Facebook pic of kids doing home work was from one such alley. We eventually found the Veggie restaurant and settled in for a meal. Everything was pretty good. The Irishman had missed the whole "vegetarian" thing, and was amazed that "the chicken wings have no bones." They had formed several items to look like the meat versions. Still, the "chicken wings" were really good even if they were of tofu and eggs. As I always say, If some one was cooking this kind of vegetarian fare for me I could easily convert.After the meal we found ourselfs in the big park in the center of town. It is well kept and there are groups playing, dancing, working out etc. From traditional forms like Tai Chi, to aerobics using really cheesy pop songs. One of the most popular games is a version of hacky sack played with something like a badminton shuttlecock. It is everywhere and kids are selling the shuttlecock thing every two feet. We were all impressed with this vibrant night life.
My friend Collin told me that he had internet access in his room and other amenities for a mere $10 a month more than me. He lived one block away and I wanted to see what he was getting for that $10. When I saw his room I realized I needed to move. Not only did he have corded and wireless internet, he had a fridge that they fill with water and sometimes other stuff. We are still not sure if the stuff is actually intended for him, or if his landlord was just storing extra things in his fridge. Pretty funny.
4/03/09 Friday
Now I'm settled with my morning sandwich lady, I'm dreading losing her when I eventually move. Still, I'm confident I'll find another though I know the price will rise as I'll be in a more "upscale" neighborhood .
In class today we reviewed what we learned this week and had to perform it. We failed miserably. Who would have though simple games would be that hard to remember. The afternoon period was again on grammar and here once more we were quite weak. It is quite something to realize that a tiny Vietnamese woman knows so much more about your language than you will ever know.
With Andy et al at the BarLater that night it was decided that we would meet at 3pm the next day and go to district 7 where there was football field where we could play. I was reticent as I did not want to risk hurting my ankle again--and in Vietnam. Also, I had not played in 15 years. Still, I agreed to join them. Tommy the coach had a bruised rib and said he would miss it. Looking at the rest of the group we all figured that some of these guys were probably so bad that we would not be overshadowed that much.
4/4/09 Saturday.
Today in the morning I met Iris at her place as she said there was a room available. I took my antique laptop with me so I could check the internet service. Yep, I would have internet. Amazing how disconnected you can feel after a week with out it. The room was also a little better with a small couch, amoire, TV, and a FRIDGE. $275 a month, $300 including laundry service. (Based on my first laundry load they actually use detergent and I can smell it. Unlike the previous place) I agreed to take it and planed to move in at 8am on Sunday.
I went back to my current residence to get ready for football. On the walk to the meeting place I met Collin and Tim and we walked together. However, to our surprise only 2 of the Brits showed up. apparently Andy and the rest were so hung over they could not move. Nick then figured that cancellation was in order. By this time Artem and Iris had arrived so we just did a little sight seeing and then decided to stop for a smoothie. Ah yes, the shops sell anything people will buy. This one turned out to be a smoothie/sandwich/condom/cigarette shop. Oh, non-smokers, in Vietnam we just have to deal with it. Cigarettes are permitted everywhere.
While we were at the smoothie place I was talking about my new internet access and Tim said he was using the internet cafes. However, he was finding it pretty funny because at 3-4 am the places are filled with people watching porn. It really got me thinking. Later, when I went to an internet cafe to print some assignments I realized how filthy the computers were. I recognized the cigarette smoke residue but now I wonder what else might be there.
Marc and the girls
In the evening, I called Marc Spindler and he invited me to a botanical park with a work friend of his had her sister. The park is really nice and has a huge buffet. You pay an entrance fee 130,000vnd ($7) and get all you can eat of amazing food. Marc picked me up on his scooter and we headed out of town to meet the girls. After some zigging and zagging we met them and continued on to the park. The trip there was unbelievable. I could not stop laughing on the back of the scooter. Bicycles, scooters, carts, SUVs, all traveling on a narrow road barely wide enough for two fat men. Marc and his friend parked the scooters in the scooter lot while her sister and I made small talk. I remembered thinking, "jeez she is tiny." We paid our fee and entered the place. It really was well set up. Well made Tiki huts with chefs cooking different items were scattered about the area. There were also lots of low bamboo tables and chairs for everyone to sit and eat. A band with a Jimmy Hendrix looking Vietnamese guy was playing traditional music. He was playing some guitar like instrument. The singer a was woman who our friends said was quite good. It was hard to judge since the Vietnamese traditional music was foreign in more ways than one.The only negative to this place is that you have to be a little pushy to get at the popular foods. The chicken and beef kabobs were gone in seconds. If you blinked you missed them. Also, it was the first time I saw Vietnamese taking more food than they could eat. It was the kind of wastage common in the West but not so much here. It was definitely a different economic class of Vietnamese.
Our hosts were delightful girls and spoke English well enough for good conversation. It was again apparent that they were much older that they looked yet there demeanor is much younger than they are. It will take a little getting used to. At this dinner I discovered the first 2 Vietnamese foods that I do not like. One is a gelatin-ized pig's blood similar to "black puddin'", but pretty bland and tasteless. At least with "black puddin'" the flavours make up for the content. The second item was truly awful. Marc said "you need to try this stuff, it is truly vile but you'll be able to tell people you ate Mắm tôm." (muck tum) I took a tiny bit and it put it on the side of my bowl. When I reached the table I realized it has slipped in to the broth and dissolved. I was determined not to waste food and proceeded to eat it. It was horrendous! I later asked Diêm what it was made from and she said like fish parts, rotten shrimp etc. Yes everyone, I have eaten Mắm tôm !
If I thought my trip to the park was harrowing, the trip back was threefold. It was now night and EVERY one was on the road. I was in hysterics laughing. The girls switched places as to who would drive, and since Marc's friend was wearing a skirt she rode side saddle on the back. It was so funny. Marc and I on one scooter, they on the other, and all of us amidst the vibrating jostling crowd of machines and people. We carried on conversations when we rode side by side then would drift aside to let a SUV or scooter go by and drift back together and continue the conversation. What a vision it was. When we were ready to split up the girls suggested a quicker route home for us and we took it. (They had a hour and a half ride to get to their home.) The new route included a trip on a Saigon freeway. This is where I got a little nervous--but still laughing. We were buzzing along with the scooter traffic while semis flew buy as fast as they could go. After we exited the freeway we turned on to a boulevard and I thought we were in Boca Raton. There were all the name brand shops, giant fancy high rises, people with fancier scooters and lots of SUVs, BMWs etc. It seemed so out of place. Oh, and the prices in this area are consistently Western.
It turned out to be quite a Saturday. Now to prepare for the move.
4/5/09 Sunday
Today I got up early so I could move. I was moving to Iris's building which was about the same distance from school as my current place. I was really looking forward to having internet access and a fridge. It was not far and I decided to walk the mile rolling my suitcases rather than using a taxi. I hate to deal with the bartering and possible cheating. (they can fix the meters when they use them) As I stepped out on the street a taxi was right in front of me. He offered his services and decided to do it. I told him the address verbally, and then showed him the Google map I created when I was in Florida. I wanted him to know I knew where I was going. They still try to drive around to build up the time. This guy did not, and the metered total was 12,000vnd (67¢) He helped me with the bags and I gave him $2, which was 3 times the price. I let him know it was because he did not try to cheat me. He smiled.
I spent the morning and afternoon using the net to catch up on the all the stuff I needed to check. Banking etc. Later, Loren called and said she was putting together a group to practice our home work stuff since we had done so badly on Friday. Her place was 2.5 miles away and I decide to walk it. Walking is really the only way to get a sense of this place. I walked the 2.5 miles in a light drizzle and it was fine as it made it quite cool. For some reason the street I was on was scooter dealership row. All brands right next to each other. I learned that in Saigon, products tend to be sold in areas. All the shoes stores on one street, all the computer stores on one street, and here a bunch of scooter stores.
It is through walking that you really get to see the comedy that is Vietnam. I saw a guy with his scooter so loaded with veggies that with the throttle wide open it would only go for a few feet. He had to use his feet Flintstones style to help keep it going. Ruuup, putt putt, kick run, kick run, ruuup, putt putt, kick run, kick run, all the way down the street--and in a drizzle. He did end up being slightly faster than my walking. But then again, I was sightseeing.
I also saw a couple guys carrying an 8' glass door vertically on their scooter. One riding, and the one on the back holding the door as they just barely missed the hanging telephone and power lines on every corner. What sights. I'm definitely going to buy a few copies of "Bikes of Burden" for people back home.
As I turned off scooter row and arrived on Loren's street I looked for her address which was #25. New lesson: Every address is numbered, but the property is not where you think they might be. I followed the numbers on the odd side 21, 23 25, 27..etc. Now normally you would expect to find 26 on the opposite side. Whaa? On the opposite side I found number 8? I was confused. I asked three different people and they gave me three different directions. I called Loren and she said she would wait out side her entrance for me. I continued walking and was in the 60s on the odd side when I saw her on the across the street. Yep, standing in front of her #25.
The study group arrived soon after but we decide to eat before we got to work. We walked the street trying to find a place the vegetarians could eat and were having difficulty. We came across a lot of interesting establishments. One turned out to be a famous bakery. We were starving, so Tim and I went in and got some baked goods. So good. We forged on and much much later found a vegetarian place. Good food but not worth the wasted time. As Tim put it, "this is why I travel alone." He had a point. By the time we got back to Loren's we were pretty beat, and the studying was cut a little short. All in all though, it was a good day and great week.
Hopefully I'll have time to put down the events of the coming weeks.
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